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"Certifications - which ones matter?"

The Focus Topic “Certifications – which ones matter” at PERFORMANCE DAYS highlights an impressive selection of sustainable textiles and innovative material solutions. This category features fabrics certified by standards such as bluesign, Oeko-Tex Step or Standard 100, Cradle to Cradle, and RWS Wool (Responsible Wool Standard). Among them, the largest group of materials is certified with the GRS (Global Recycled Standard). However, the analysis also reveals some challenges: only two fabrics in this category meet the criteria for circularity, which ensures that products can be fully recycled at the end of their lifecycle. On the positive side, textile waste is notably low, yet the recycling process remains complex. This complexity is partly due to market demand—most retailers prioritize GRS certification, which pushes Cradle to Cradle and similar approaches into the background. PERFORMANCE DAYS aims to address these challenges by showcasing sustainable innovations and raising awareness of the need for streamlined recycling processes and a broader perspective on holistic sustainability concepts like Cradle to Cradle. The ultimate goal is to actively support the textile industry on its journey toward a circular and sustainable future.

The baselayer category showcases a diverse range of innovative fabrics tailored to meet the needs of both performance-driven and natural applications.

The performance segment offers cutting-edge materials designed for functionality and versatility: Spun Polyester with a cotton-like handfeel, combining comfort with technical performance. Waffle constructions incorporating Tencel for enhanced moisture management and elasticity-free flexibility. Eco-conscious innovations like integrated with coffee grounds  and dry-release Tencel for superior moisture-wicking and breathability. Materials featuring Polypropylene, technical piqué structures, and bio-based Nylon wool blends for advanced performance. Recycled Polyester blends provide stretch and durability while maintaining sustainable credentials

The natural segment emphasizes sustainability and simplicity, with a focus on renewable and biodegradable materials: Hemp and pineapple fibers, offering unique textures and eco-friendliness. Tencel/wool and viscose blends for softness, temperature regulation, and natural comfort. Across both segments, the use of Lycra is reduced, highlighting a shift toward materials that offer natural or structural elasticity. The baselayer category underscores the industry's move toward balancing performance and sustainability, catering to both high-functionality applications and eco-conscious consumers.

The midlayer category stands out as one of the most exciting and innovative this season, showcasing a remarkable balance between natural fibers, technical constructions, and sustainable solutions. Materials like Good Earth Cotton and wool featured prominently, emphasizing the trend toward comfort and sustainability. Advanced constructions like brrr° cooling technology provide excellent functionality for activewear.

Polyamide-wool blends and lightweight materials offer a versatile mix of technical performance and natural aesthetics. Toray's 100% recycled Polyester with shedless technology and biodegradable properties highlights cutting-edge sustainability.

While there is an impressive variety of eco-friendly materials, a lack of recycled elastane was noted, reflecting a challenge in achieving full circularity in stretch fabrics. Mixed compositions dominates the category, with fewer mono-component materials, though the balance between innovation and recyclability remains a focus.

This season offers a greater variety of materials than previous collections, with fabrics catering to both performance and lifestyle needs.

The softshell & outer midlayer category showcases impressive versatility and innovation this season, with fabrics tailored to meet the needs of lightweight, durable, and functional summer applications.

A variety of materials are featured, including recycled Polyester, Polyamide, wool, and cotton, demonstrating a move towards both sustainability and performance

New constructions that have stood out: recycled Polyester with PU coatings for added weather resistance; Nylon-wool blends that combine technical properties with natural comfort; a new type of softshell featuring wool, introducing innovative backside structures for enhanced wearability during summer

Takisada Nagoya received an award for their “Wool Combat” fabric. By blending Cordura Nylon, renowned for its high abrasion resistance, with wool, they have created a material that is significantly more durable than standard wool fabrics. This innovation stands out for its combination of strength, comfort, and functionality.

The category embraced currys as a prominent new summer trend color. Fabrics featured unique mixtures, moving beyond traditional styles to include combinations like wool with polyester or cotton, resulting in lighter, more breathable materials ideal for summer conditions.

The 2.5- and 3-layer category emerges as the standout for the spring/summer season 2027, with 3-layer fabrics cementing their position as one of the most essential summer products. This category impresses with a remarkable range of innovative solutions, spanning mono-components, advanced Nylon constructions, and sustainable technologies.

Here are some highlights and innovations, the jury would like to point out: Li Peng presented super-lightweight 3-Layer fabrics featuring a hydrophilic membrane combined with 3D Nylon. These fabrics incorporate ReEcoya dope-dyed technology, offering significant water savings during production. Toray introduced a groundbreaking solution with a hydrophilic membrane with 100% recycled Nylon ripstop upper material. This fabric stands out for being ultra-breathable, extremely lightweight, and highly durable, meeting the demands of performance and longevity. Sympatex showcased a variant produced via textile-to-textile recycling, underlining its commitment to circularity and sustainable design. Onechang Material impressed with an electrospun membrane with 100% recycled Nylon ripstop upper material. This fabric is not only PFC-free but also delivers exceptional performance characteristics.

The combination of lightweight materials, innovative breathable membranes, and sustainable production techniques solidifies 2.5- and 3-layer fabrics as key drivers for the Spring/Summer season. From water-saving dyeing methods to circular material solutions, these fabrics meet the industry's growing demand for both technical performance and environmental responsibility. The diversity and ingenuity in this category highlight its potential to shape the future of functional fabrics for warm-weather applications.

The 2-layer category is notably less popular this season, particularly for summer applications, leading to fewer submissions and a limited variety of innovations. The jury awarded lower scores overall, citing a lack of technical advancements and compelling new developments. Focus lies in recycled contents and mono components wherever possible.

Despite these shortcomings, a few standout examples showcases the potential of this category: Fabrics from eVent with hydrophilic membranes, offering high waterproof ratings and excellent breathability. Flytec Defend Mono, made from 100% recycled Polyester, presented a well-rounded solution for recyclability and circular design.

The 2-layer category's limited advancements and focus on recycled polyester blends underscore the need for more innovation in lightweight constructions and mono-material solutions, ensuring both performance and sustainability are achieved in future developments.

The lightweight & downproof category presents a more restrained selection this season, with very few fabrics specifically designed for summer wear. Many suppliers didn't submit a wide variety of options, resulting in a noticeable lack of new developments. However, there are still some noteworthy innovations and technical achievements that stood out.

The summer-specific fabrics in this category are few, and the lack of new materials and updates from mills leave a gap in terms of innovation. An exceptional fabric stand out from Toyota Tsusho Corporation, made from 100% recycled Nylon with a very fine yarn count. This fabric is lightweight, breathable, and highly durable, making it suitable for a wide range of outdoor products, particularly windproof jackets. Its technical properties ensure comfort during various activities while providing excellent resistance to wear and tear. The advanced manufacturing processes required to weave this fabric make it a rare and unique material on the market. Fabrics incorporating recycled Polyamide, including those made from ocean waste and fishing nets, also feature prominently. These materials are part of an increasing push for circularity in outdoor textiles. Different surface finishes, such as shiny surfaces, add an element of style while maintaining the downproof and windblock properties necessary for functional outerwear. While recycled Nylons are used, recycled yarns in this category remain limited. The technical complexity involved in producing downproof and windproof fabrics means that many recycled options are still in development stages.

The shirts category brings a refreshing mix of technical and natural materials, reflecting a shift toward more sustainable, versatile, and comfortable fabrics for the upcoming season.

Wool is making a strong comeback, featuring prominently across submissions. It is being reintroduced in lightweight, breathable constructions ideal for summer shirts. Innovative use of paper yarns adds a unique texture and a focus on sustainability.

Natural Fibers: A significant presence of cotton, modal, silk, all offering a soft handfeel and natural comfort. Fabrics like SeaWool (a blend of recycled polyester and wool from discarded oyster shells) and algea-dyed fibers offer innovative solutions with a focus on eco-friendliness. Technical Fabrics: Brrr° qualities, known for their cooling effect, add functionality to the category.

Materials derive from recycled fishing nets, alongside advancements in new dyeing techniques such as low-impact and allergy-friendly dyes, highlight the industry's commitment to sustainable practices. There is a noticeable reduction in polo shirt piqué fabrics, with a focus instead on summer checks and innovative textures. The materials cater to a wide range of applications, balancing technical performance with natural aesthetics for both activewear and casual styles. The shirts category demonstrates how traditional materials like wool and cotton can be reimagined through innovative processes and sustainable practices. With its blend of natural fibers, technical performance, and eco-conscious solutions, this category is setting new standards for modern, versatile shirt fabrics.

The pants & tights category presents a mix of traditional and innovative materials this season, addressing a variety of market needs with a focus on sustainability, versatility, and natural aesthetics. There is limited emphasis on compression among the submitted materials, suggesting a shift toward more relaxed fits and less performance-specific designs. High-quality wovens dominated the category, with particular interest in chino structures catering to the growing demand from the U.S. market. Polyester and Polyamide with minimal stretch for added comfort and mobility. Recycled materials, including recycled polyamide and polyester blends, made with eco-conscious processes such as low-impact dyeing and pre-consumer recycling. Fabrics derive from recycled fishing nets, showcasing innovation in Nylon production. A strong focus on cotton blends, including organic cotton, twill, and oxford weaves. Hemp emerges as a notable material, offering both sustainability and a natural aesthetic.

The function meets fashion category perfectly captures the growing trend of Gorpcore, blending outdoor-inspired designs with functional materials that are both stylish and practical. This season's focus is on innovative material combinations, textural contrasts, and cutting-edge finishes, making the category stand out for its versatility and modern appeal.

The classic look of denim makes a strong statement in this category, offering stylish yet durable fabrics. Natural fibers like Tencel and cotton play a key role, providing comfort and breathability, while also supporting sustainable fashion choices. The inclusion of cashmere brings a touch of luxury to the category, seamlessly blending comfort with high-end aesthetics.

Several fabrics incorporate anti-slip technologies, enhancing performance in active or outdoor settings. The category introduces shiny finishes and lightweight materials, which offer a fresh and dynamic look for functional wearables. Fabrics feature bold prints and 3D-checks, such as mud finishes, which provide a striking aesthetic and a tactile dimension.

The use of special techniques, such as shiny finishes, mud effects, and 3D checks, highlight the growing trend of blending fashion-forward designs with functional characteristics, creating a visually exciting yet practical wardrobe.

The safety & durability category is seeing an impressive resurgence this season, with a remarkable variety of submissions that stand out for their strength, high performance, and innovative materials. This category showcases some of the best options for urban workwear, technical outerwear, and durable apparel, proving that performance can meet both style and functionality.

The category features a great selection of strong, high-density woven fabrics, as well as 3-layer constructions, designed for durability and protection in demanding conditions. The waterproof Nylon fabrics, perfect for raincoats, make a strong appearance, offering excellent protection against the elements while maintaining high durability. A durable and classic fabric, Oxford material is featured prominently for pants and workwear applications, providing a balance of comfort and toughness. Fabrics with brrr° cooling technology are introduced, offering active cooling properties that enhance comfort, especially for those working in warm or high-energy environments. Many of the fabrics showcase a strong urban workwear look, combining durability with a fashionable edge suitable for modern, everyday wear.

There are notable submissions in membranes and jerseys, combining technical performance with style. These materials offer a wide range of uses, from waterproof outer layers to breathable, flexible jerseys ideal for active work environments. Materials like Polyester and Nylon continue to dominate, especially in outerwear and pants, due to their strength and ability to withstand harsh environments while remaining lightweight and comfortable.

The packs & bags category undergoes a rebranding this season, evolving from bags & tents to packs & bags. This shift reflects the growing demand for functional yet stylish designs, showcasing a fusion of sustainability and fashion-forward materials.

A range of cool finishes emerged, adding a modern touch to the category. The inclusion of corduroy fabrics brings a rich texture, while Spectra fibers made from recycled fishing nets offered durability and strength. Textile-to-textile recycling are making waves, reinforcing a commitment to circularity in the bags and packs industry. Recycled Polyester, such as in ripstop woven fabrics for bags, is notably eco-friendly, using solution-dyed black yarn and anhydrous dyed multi-colored yarn, significantly reducing water usage during the dyeing process.

Ocean Plastics: A standout material is the 1.0mm thick vegan leather designed to mimic buffalo leather, crafted using a biobased, water-based PU coating. This fabric is not only DMF-free but also uses biopolymers and a plant-based biomass formulation to reduce petroleum-based content. The process eliminates DMF smells, minimizes VOC emissions, and reduces energy consumption, making it ideal for use in patches, trimmings, sleeves, upholstery, home décor, and bags.

Achievetex: A recycled fishing net Nylon combined with Spectra fibers provides an ultra-durable, eco-conscious material perfect for bags and packs, reinforcing the trend toward sustainability in the outdoor and fashion accessories space.

The category stands out with a greater emphasis on fashionable designs, blending performance with style. Many concepts move beyond the purely utilitarian, offering bags and packs that are not only highly functional but also visually appealing and trendy.